Isolated, untrammeled and seldom visited, Katavi is a true wilderness, providing the few intrepid souls who make it there with a thrilling taste of Africa as it must have been a century ago.  Tanzania’s third largest national park, it lies in the remote southwest corner of the country, within a truncated arm of the Rift Valley that terminates in the shallow, brooding expanse of Lake Rukwa.

The bulk of Katavi supports a hypnotically featureless cover of tangled woodland, home to substantial but elusive population of the localized eland, sable and roan antelopes.  But the main focus for game viewing within the park is the Katuma River and associated floodplains such as the seasonal Lakes Katavi and Chada. During rainy season, these lush marshy lakes are a haven for water birds, they also support Tanzania’s densest concentrations of hippo and crocodile.

It is during the dry season, when the floodwaters retreat, that Katavi truly comes its own.  The Katuma, reduced to a shallow, muddily trickle forms the only source of water for miles around, and flanking floodplains support game concentrations that defy belief.  An estimated 4000 elephants might converge on this area, giraffe, zebra, impala and spotted hyena, all of these are easy prey for the lion prides waiting for their next meals.

Katavi most singular wildlife spectacle is provided by its hippos.  Towards the end of the dry season, up to 200 individual might flop together in any riverine pool of sufficient depth.  And as more hippos gather in one place, so does male rivalry heat up, bloody territorial fights are an everyday occurrence, with the vanquished male forced to lurk hapless on the open plains until it gathers sufficient confidence to mount another challenge.

The size of Katavi is 1727 square miles, it is located Southwest Tanzania, east of Lake Tanganyika, the headquarters is located  at Silalike which is  25 miles south of Mpanda Town.

To get there you will need a charter flight from Dar es Salam or Arusha, a tough but spectacular day’s drive from Mbeya 340 miles, or in the dry season only from Kigoma 240 miles.  It is possible to reach Mpanda by rail from Dar es Salam via Tabora, then to catch public transport to Silalike, where game drives can be arranged.

What to do while there, walking, driving and camping safaris.  Make a visit near Lake Katabi to visit the tamarind tree inhabited by the spirit of the legendary hunter Katabi (for whom the park is named), offereings is still left here by the locals seeking the spirit’s blessing.

When to go is the dry season May through October, as roads in the park are often flooded during the times of mid December to February.

Accommodations in the park consist of two luxury tented camps overlooking Lake Chada, a rest house at Sitailike and campsites in the park, basic but clean hotels in Mpanda.